On September 19 I found myself driving down Highway 4 towards Arnold with my wife and two sons to spend a weekend at Calaveras Big Trees State Park as part of the monthly troop outing. This was the first troop outing I had been on in a year and this time I was going not as a Assistant Scoutmaster or a hike leader, but as a dad. I was in new territory, before I had been a troop leader and had not only myself but the whole group to worry about. This time my youngest son, Gavin, was the scout in charge. He was currently the Assistant Senior Patrol Leader, but his term as Senior Patrol Leader started October 1, so this camp-out was his trial run.
We drove through Arnold and the boys and I saw one of our favorite burger places, Giant Burger, where we had a fantastic lunch two years earlier on our back from a week at Camp Wolfeboro, just a little further down the highway. Sadly, we would miss eating there this trip.
We arrived at the park just after 5 pm. Gavin stepped out of the truck with me and made sure he was the one to talk to the Ranger and get us checked in. We were assigned campsite 70, with 72 and 74 reserved for the rest of the troop. The Ranger asked if we were familiar with the park and we answered in the affirmative though the last time we had been here as a family Gavin was being rolled around in a stroller. The Ranger handed me a park brochure and newsletter that Gavin quickly snatched saying he wanted to review the park map on the way to the campsite. I smiled, he was more of a leader every day. Right then I decided to relax and enjoy the trip. From that point I told myself my only responsibility would be taking care of my tent and making sure my wife got a good night sleep.
Five minutes after check-in we were backed into our site and Gavin was doing a through inspection of each site to determine where to place the adults and the scouts. By the time the rest of the troop arrived an hour later he had everything mapped out and the unloading and camp set-up went like clockwork. As much as I wanted to get involved I grabbed a snack of dried seaweed and sat in my round moon chair that had been presented to me as a gift when my term as Scoutmaster had ended.
I felt like the luckiest guy on the planet. A year ago my life was hanging on a thin edge and I didn't know which way I would tumble. Now I was sitting in my camp chair next to my wife of 19 years on our first family camping trip in four years.
My tent. Much larger than my backpacking tent (when I use one that is) but Ami was very comfy with it's roomier interior. The moon chair to the left is my reward for serving as Scoutmaster for two years. It is a very comfortable chair and I have slept in it more than once.
The scouts of Troop 136 begin to set up their camp
Most troop outings begin in the late afternoon or early evening of Fridays so they learn how to set up tents using flashlights very quickly.
The infamous Phoenix Patrol. These are the three oldest scouts in the troop and have been with me since they were in the sixth grade. They are all now seniors in high school. The two on the right have been together since they were Tiger Cubs, when they were in the first grade. They are the only two from their Tiger Den to still be active in scouting. The scout on the far left is an Eagle Scout. The scout in the center has completed his Eagle Project and is finishing the last few merit badges he needs. My oldest son Austin, on the right, is working on his Eagle Project in October and should finish his requirements just before his 18th birthday in May.
Brothers: My oldest son Austin, sitting, and my youngest son Gavin, standing. Austin completed his term as SPL just six months before.
Morning comes early. My wife Ami has only one condition for these camp-outs: she must have flushing toilets and hot showers. By the towel draped across the chair you can see I have met the demand for showers.
Gavin gets the scouts ready for their day. We are hiking from the campsite to the North Grove, just a quick little 5 minute hike, where we will take the North Grove Trail through the most popular part of the park, including the Big Stump.
A quick side note: I have been camping since before I could walk. In that time it has been my desire, carried over from my dad, to make the most efficient, cost-effective, and simple camp kitchen ever designed. On this trip I think I met my goal. The Milwaukee Toolbox is my most inventive and basic camp kitchen so far. Inside I have enough equipment to make cooking and eating simple for two people. I have a cast iron 10" skillet, a pot to boil water, 2 mugs, 2 drinking glasses, utensils including forks, spoons, knives, spices, coffee pot, cleaning wipes, plates and a host of smaller things every camp kitchen should have.
We are on our way.
The Big Stump, probably the most well known attraction in the park.
One of the two Sentinel Trees (the tree in the distance with the large scar). This was the original entrance to the park. The other Sentinel Tree has fallen and can be seen just to the right of the still standing Sentinel.
A close-up of the still standing Sentinel Tree.
A family portrait. From left: my son Austin, my wife Ami, me, and my son Gavin.
A father/son moment.
On top of the Big Stump. We were lucky enough to have a docent available that was a expert on the history of the Stump and the surrounding Grove.
The history of the Big Stump.
We say goodbye to the Big Stump.
We start our hike of the North Grove Trail.
Our first stop: the Empire State Tree. This is the largest tree in the North Grove. The base is 30 feet in diameter.
Looking upwards.
Ami and I posing in the root system of a fallen sequoia.
Whether I am hiking among the coastal redwoods of the north or in the sequoia forests of the sierras I always feel that there is something majestic about these trees...
The Siamese Twins. The first fifty feet of the tree are one tree until they begin to separate.
Me inside a hollowed log.
My favorite section of the trail. This is the top of a fallen log and the trail continues right through the center of the tree. It is a bit like walking through a small cave but it is bark and wood that is around you instead of rock.
Me, Ami and Gavin at the entrance of the tree tunnel.
Looking through the tunnel. Gavin is standing at the far end.
Another family photo. This was a cool looking tree that had been hollowed out by fire but still alive. We actually walked in from behind to pose by this giant root. To get an idea of how large this root system is, I am standing straight on the ground behind the root.
Ami and Austin. Behind them is the entrance to the root system seen in the previous photo.
Is it any wonder the native Miwoks named these "Big Trees?"
A snag. One of the largest in the grove.
This road was a side route of the Carson-Emigrant Trail. Snowshoe Thompson also used this road during his 20 years of carrying mail between Murphys and Carson City. This is also known as the Camel Trail: named after a group of nine Bactrian camels imported from Mongolia whom passed through this way in 1861 on their way to Walker, Nevada.
The heart of the grove. It is estimated that the trees in this section of the grove are between 800 to 3,000 years old.
Tourists have been walking this trail since 1850. Until the late 1880s when the roads to Yosemite Valley improved this was the only place people could view the "Big Trees" of the sierras.
A redwood burl.
A Dogwood Tree.
The sunlight filtering through the trees. This was taken at 11 am.
Ami striking a pose in the Pioneer Tree.
Gavin at the end of the hike at the Visitor Center.
A display outside the Visitor Center.
Ami inside the Visitor Center.
After the morning hike we went back to camp and had lunch. Now for those that have never been on a scout outing lunch can be an interesting thing. If we are fortunate enough to be in camp for lunch then the sky is the limit. One patrol may be having your basic ham and turkey sandwich while another patrol has started a small fire to roast hot dogs while yet another patrol has started up the camp stove to make spaghetti or pasta Alfredo. In the past I have been known to whip up a batch of BBQ pulled pork sandwiches complete with coleslaw and garlic french fries. This time it was pretty basic. Most of the adults and the patrols kept it to basic sandwiches though one patrol did start a small fire to roast hot dogs. I stepped it up a notch using a croissant, some specialty mustard and deli cheese along with hickory smoked ham.
When the eating and clean-up was done we broke up into two groups: one group to ride bikes up and down some of the park fire roads and the other to hike into the South Grove, about a 10 minute drive away.
The beginning of the trail for the South Grove.
A trail map. We are starting from the South Grove trail-head and hiking in to the Agassiz Tree.
My son Austin ready to ride.
The start of the trail.
Trail sign.
The bridge over Beaver Creek.
Crossing the bridge. The trail to the South Grove begins just on the other side.
Beaver Creek. It was very tempting to climb down and soak our feet...
Starting to ascend to the ridge above.
A quiet stroll through the forest. The trail would follow the creek for a short while before bending back to the east.
Beaver Creek below.
On the ridge line.
Two snags. Shortly after I snapped this photo a hawk flew to the top of the snag on the right. I think there was a nest up there.
The South Grove boundary.
The trail up and into the South Grove.
There was very little sunlight filtering through the trees because the canopy was so thick. Part of this reminded me of the Skyline to Sea Trail on the coast.
A cool looking Dogwood tree.
A sequoia burl.
We arrive at the loop junction. Either direction will bring you to the Agassiz Tree deep in the grove. Here is where I got into a little trouble. Typically I hike at the end of the group because I like to take a lot of photos and move at my own pace. Gavin had appointed Mr. Roberts, a ASM for the Cat Patrol, to act as sweep, so technically he was supposed to be behind me the entire time, and usually he did a good job of keeping me and the main group in sight. After I took this photo I saw him disappear around the bend on the trail to the right. Looking at the map I saw that the trail to the left was much shorter so I decided to head that way, then meet the main group at the junction just before it narrows to one track for the final hike to the Agassiz Tree. Now, six of the eight scouts on the hike had learned search and rescue techniques from yours truly over the last few years. So when they stopped for a quick break and I did not appear they backtracked and started a search for me...
Just before I took this a snake was stretched out soaking up the sun. When it heard it me moving closer it slid into this pile of leaves and wouldn't come out.
The trail up to the junction with the other loop.
A hollowed out Sequoia that was big enough to shelter a small patrol from the elements.
I reach the junction with the loop trail. Thinking they were still on the trail below I dropped my pack, grabbed a few jerky sticks and sat down to enjoy the scenery.
The trail leading down to where I thought I would surprise the rest of the group. I was enjoying a jerky stick, a drink of pure honey, and a handful of Lemonheads when I heard the group coming down the wrong trail. My son was in the lead and actually accused me of being lost. Ami was not exactly happy with me either, but the other three ASMs had a nice chuckle on my account. Mr. Roberts, the sweep, did not let me out of his sight the rest of the hike.
We arrive at the Palace Hotel Tree.
We reach our final destination.
Gavin and I in front of the Agassiz Tree, the largest tree in the park.
Our hiking group.
Snack time!
By the time we reached the Agassiz Tree we were a tad behind schedule. We had a little over four mile to go and less than an hour to meet up with biking group back at the trail-head. I have to say, we made awesome time! We covered the four miles in just over 45 minutes. Here we reach the bridge across Beaver Creek.
We arrived at the parking lot 20 minutes late, only to find a note that the other group had already headed back to camp.
Back at camp it is still too early for dinner so we practice scouting skills. Here ASM Jamie Robb is showing a scout how to make a woggle neckerchief slide using paracord.
I strike a pose after starting the charcoal my wife and I will need for our foil packet dinner.
Ami back at camp.
Older scouts trying to look busy so they don't get volunteered to do any work...
During dinner we heard the first sound of thunder. After we all ate it was time to secure camp and all non-essential equipment either went into the tents or the cars. Other families camping around us simply packed up and went home. A little after 7 pm the skies opened and really gave us a nice downpour that lasted until 2 am. It did not bother us in the least, as we were snug in our tents. This is a photo I took the next morning of where my tent had been located. Nice and dry underneath.
Scouts moving around the last morning, wanting to pack up, but still not ready to leave for home.
First rule of scouting whether you are arriving or leaving: place every ounce of gear where a scout may want to sit down.
A scout patrol box: on Friday everything is placed neatly and uniformly in its own little spot. On Sunday morning nothing seems to fit anywhere...
Since we were less than 15 minutes from Murphys I talked Ami and the boys into a side trip to Mercer Cavern. We arrived 20 minutes before the first tour. Gavin and I had been here nearly 5 years earlier when he was much shorter. Now he was the largest guy in our tour group.
The cavern entrance.
The first stop of the tour. To the right is the wall of limestone that acts as the support wall for the entire cavern.
Cave drapes.
Crystallized columns.
Deeper in the cavern. Almost to the bottom, 110 feet below the surface. The formation in the center is known as the jellyfish.
Cave bacon.
The little rover to the right is the cave's resident ROV. They are constantly exploring the cave and still have not reached the bottom or gone through the numerous side passages. They estimate that nearly 60% of the cavern has yet to be explored.
A grotto that leads to nowhere.
Looking down.
The bottom of the tour. Now we hike back up the staircase.
After we finished the tour the boys wanted to head back to Giant Burger for a tasty treat but Ami was ready to head home so we bid farewell to Murphys and Highway 4 and made the two hour drive back home.
Calaveras Big Trees State Park:
Mercer Cavern:
Murphys:
Arnold:
Giant Burger, Arnold, CA
BSA Camp Wolfeboro:
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